From modesty to the Bikini and Burqini -A brief history of swimwearFrom modesty to the Bikini and Burqini -A brief history of swimwear 

Tim Barlass

As swimming became an increasingly popular leisure pastime in the 1850s, the result was a public cover-up.

Men wore a heavy one-piece garment that covered the arms, torso and thighs while women were required to wear a dress that was pleated, long sleeved and belted. Drawers that extended to the ankle were attached to the dress to ensure that the body was not exposed - so little chance of sunburn.

These garments were made of wool or cotton which restricted movement in the water and took forever to dry out. By the 1870s men's bathing suits were sleeveless and resembled underwear. Women's bathing dresses included corsets, stockings and shoes.

Evolution of the cossie reflected changing attitudes towards the public display of bare flesh. Swimwear fabrics developed during the 20th century from animal and plant fibres such as cotton, wool and silk to synthetic fibres after World War II such as Nylon, Lastex, Lycra (a trademark for Elastane/ Spandex) that had greater elasticity and were quick-drying.

In 1921 Jantzen launched an advertising campaign with the 'red diving girl' logo and the slogan 'The Suit that Changed Bathing into Swimming'. This campaign saw the first use of the term 'swimming suit' which was used thereafter.

In 1928 Jantzen opened its first overseas manufacturing factory in Sydney and was in direct competition with Speedo and other Australian swimwear manufacturers such as Black Lance.

In the 1930s Jantzen introduced the bra-lift swimsuit for women using Lastex rubberised yarn which gave swimsuits greater shape and structure.

The 'Topper', a men's tank suit with removable zip top, was introduced in the 1930s paving the way for topless bathing for men and boys.

Lastex was invented in the 1930s. Its rubber-cored thread enabled manufacturers to create clingy silhouettes in their swimwear lines.

The development of synthetic fabrics by DuPont, such as quick-dry nylon in 1938 and Lycra-spandex in 1959, ensured the trend to snug, form-fitting garments and ongoing innovation in swimwear technology and design.

Two piece swimsuits showing bare midriffs arrived in Australia in the early 1940s, with the notable appearance in Surfers Paradise in 1943, when designer Paula Stafford debuted her self‑made two‑piece swimsuit. This shocked the conservative Queensland community at the time. Her designs became increasingly visible through the 1940s and 1950s as public acceptance grew.

Bikinis became more petite in the following decades in an era before awareness of the risks of sunburn and the Slip, Slop, Slap campaign launched in 1981.

In 2004 the Burqini was created and introduced by Australian-Lebanese designer Aheda Zanetti in Bankstown, Sydney, to allow Muslim women to participate in surf sports and beach life while adhering to modest dress requirements.

The Burqini fits loosely while allowing freedom of movement and includes a hood to cover the hair and a thigh-length long-sleeved tunic worn over a pair of ankle-length pants. These two-piece swimsuits come in active, slim and modesty fits and are made from Polyester or Polyester/Spandex.

With the Burqini the swimsuit had come almost full circle – back to its roots in the 1900s and the great public cover-up.

Sustainability and boutique brands arrived in the 2010s with increasing focus on eco‑friendly materials such as regenerated nylon. Small boutique brands emerged with strong identities, from minimalist to vibrant prints.

By the 2020s advances in fabric technology improved UV protection, shaping, and durability. Brands expanded size ranges and embraced diverse body shapes while sustainability continued to shape the industry, with recycled fibres becoming the norm.