Endeavour log - 12 to 24 February 2025

The day we have voyage crew join is always an intensive and exciting day. Our voyage crew were eagerly waiting on the wharf anxiously imagining what they have ahead of them. After the crew were signed on and designated to their watches, everyone gathered on deck to be welcomed on board and introduced to Endeavours professional crew, after which training and inductions commenced.

The crew were shown through the vessel identifying escape routes, fire extinguishers, life jackets, life rafts, etc and how each item is used. After lunch, aloft inductions were commenced and the crew all had their first experience of climbing the rigging. Many loved it, others many take a few more climbs to become accustomed to it. All are invested in putting in all they have, understanding that their effort will reward them once they have overcome the challenges presented.

Due to the weather and forecast wind direction, we have decided to remain alongside in Hobart to carry out the training and to settle everyone into the routine of the ship and sleeping in their hammocks.

This morning, we all awoke to a beautiful morning and the crew are all excited and willing to learn about the ship. We had our usual morning meetings and then put the Voyage crew to work. This started with a good clean through the ship. With 53 souls living onboard, cleanliness and hygiene is key to maintaining a healthy ship. After cleaning, the crew donned there harnesses and once again climbed into the rigging, this was to put reefs into our topsails and to also train them in working as a team to furl the sails and to get them accustomed to working at heights before heading out to sea. 

Once completed aloft, the crew will stand down for lunch, after which we will get onto emergency drills for the afternoon, followed by further training in line and sail handling. The crew are already working well together as a team and are willing to jump into any task with vigour.

Tomorrow morning, we will depart Hobart and commence our voyage north once the wind turns to the south and freshens.

After lunch yesterday the crew turn to for drills and further training. It had been a hot and exhausting day, but that did not quell the enthusiasm. We carried out the mandatory fire, man over board and abandon ship drills and once completed all were stood down for the afternoon. A number of crew used this time to go to the shops for some last minute shopping while others climbed the rig.

All crew turned to at 0600 this morning and Endeavour departed the wharf and fired a departing cannon and proceeded down the Derwent River and into Storm bay while the crew had breakfast and cleaned the ship, ensuring all gear is stowed and secure.

An hour before lunch. Sails were unfurled and set. Endeavour is now under sail with a conservative sail configuration in anticipation of strong Southerly winds expected over the coming days.

All is well. 

We set off for an early departure with the sun rising through a hazy sky as bushfire smoke descended on Hobart.  “Fire in the hole” was yelled as the starboard cannon was fired toward our friends on the CSIRO research vessel “Investigator” and we made our way down the Derwent River. 

Shortly before lunch in Storm Bay it was time to set the sails. The voyage crew were put through their paces of hauling and sweating lines. A bit more practice may be needed but it looks like they are off to a great start! An hour into the midday watch, the weather turned a bit cooler as a southerly chill was felt, waves picked up and voyage crew had their first taste of the rolling sea and a rolling ship.

Squeals of delight were heard when whales were spotted twice during the day as we rounded Tasman Island. A wonderful sight against the rugged coastline of South East Tasmania. Finally, it was time for dinner, salmon and vegetables, finished off with Al’s famous berry cheesecake, Keeping everyone warm as the southerly wind chilled the air and the rain started to fall.

Shortly after lunch yesterday the wind backed into the south west and increased to thirty knots giving our fresh crew their first taste of sailing. 

The sea picked up and as we rounded Cape Raoul we started to feel the effects of the South Westerly swell making a number of the crew a little queasy, especially once to 2 metre north easterly swell combined with the opposing swell and sea as we approached Tasman Island and started to cause Endeavour to roll and pitch uncomfortably for a short while. 

Endeavour was making good 7.5 knots toward Tasman island and once the ship was clear we altered course to the north putting the wind directly astern. Endeavour continued to run averaging 5 knots overnight with a gentle pitch and roll as showers came off the land and temperature slowly dropped. Two sperm whales were sighted, one surfacing only 10 meters from the ship. Many dolphins and thousands of seabirds were also spotted showing off their acrobatic prowess. 

At sunrise today, we were abeam of Wineglass bay and have been continuing our steady progress up along the Tasmanian coast with a hitchhiker that was found on board this morning, this being what we believe may be a Fleshy footed Shearwater. We think it may have collided with our rigging or a sail sometime during the night. It has found a quiet place on deck and will hopefully fly off to find its friends before we get to far from home. 

With a gale warning issued offshore we are remaining in close to the coast to not only view the incredible scenery, but to also remain out of the heavier weather expected to develop later today and overnight. 

All is well

Shortly after noon yesterday our boatswain Matt decided our feathered hitchhiker had spent enough time on board and encouraged it leave. He had waited for another flock of birds to come close and upon release our feathered friend took flight and seemed to fly toward the passing flock. Our afternoon was consumed by watching the beautiful Tasmanian coastline appear and then disappear between occasional rain squalls while Endeavour comfortably sailed north with the developing south to southwesterly breeze. 

At sunset we were treated to an incredible sunset as the light shone through below the clouds turning everything golden as numerous rainbows were observed to leeward and dolphins frolicked in our wake. This was Tassie saving its best as a final farewell as we secured the ship and made the last checks for the night ahead. 

Overnight the winds increased as forecast, 25 knots gusting to 35 and above. Endeavour came to life and took off averaging 7.6 knots overnight while a large swell developed causing her to surf, at one point reaching over twelve knots. 

At sunrise this morning we were approximately 15 nautical miles east of the northern tip of Flinders island still making speeds exceeding 8-9 knots while the westerly swell from bass strait starting to make its combined affect with the 4 metre southerly swell known as we sailed clear from the lee of Flinders island. All hands are a little tired, but exhilarated from experiencing Endeavour in her element while seeing Bass strait turn it on. The helm has been a demanding task to keep Endeavour on course but has been a rewarding experience for those that have mastered it within our 48 hours of setting sails. 

The forecast is for conditions to ease through the afternoon and evening, making life on board a little easier for those feeling the fatigue induced by the ceaseless rolling and pitching of the ship.

All is well

It was a swashbuckling, rocking and rolling adventure as we ran down the James Craig. Reaching a top speed of 12 knots, it wasn’t long before they were a small speck in the distance off the stern. It was wet and wild and windy on the helm but down in the 20th century deck, in the warmth and cosiness of the galley, how did the cooks’ fare? It was time to check on Al and Brian in the galley to see how their day went. 

Al says he had put the pressure on Brian to save the day as things had started to heat up in the galley. The call went out for 124 small cocktail potatoes. Brian hustled through the engine room to the dry stores, highly focused on not letting Al down. He juggled through the potatoes one by one, swaying his hips to the roll of the ship, finding the perfect batch.  As they prepared dinner, in perfect unison, their rhythmic interpretative dance matched the percussion of the pots and pans. Brian playing Robin to Al’s Batman. Might be time to send them on deck for some fresh air. 

Potatoes rolled and lettuce danced and the Hoki Fish did the Hokey Pokey as everyone tried to keep their food on their plates. With the motion of the ocean, glasses wobbled and fell, drowning a few meals.  Finally for dessert, we had a voluminous amount of Nigella’s saucy, hot Jam Pudding which was right at home wobbling around in the crew’s gentle hands.  

It remained an exhilarating afternoon yesterday as the wind held in and showed no signs of easing up. The confused sea and swell that had been experienced earlier in the day sorted itself out and formed into large waves that at times appeared to tower above the stern. Endeavour took this weather in her stride and lifted her stern allowing the swell to pass under while at times rolling heavily as she is accustomed too.  

The wind remained with us and continued blowing at 35, gusting to over 40 knots as we slowly closed the distance with our shipmates on James Craig that had left Hobart hours before us and giving her a twenty mile head start. The winds did ease marginally in the late evening, but Endeavour was determined not to slow down as we slowly overhauled and sailed ahead of James Craig in the early hours of this morning. 

By sunrise as we sailed past Gabo island and entered New South Wales, Endeavour had left Jame Craig well astern as we continue on our sail north. The sea has since eased somewhat after rounding Gabo island and the wind is still fresh at twenty knots, while Endeavour continues sailing at 5-6 knots.  

Once again, the wind is forecast to ease further as we enjoy the coastline as viewed from the original Endeavour over 250 years ago.

All is well

After a wild day on the seas on Sunday, the winds started to abate and the sea settled to a more comfortable state. The morning watch were put to work scrubbing the decks and did a great job of it. A breakfast of bacon and eggs, porridge and cereals was served up from the galley with everyone tucking in. Any signs of seasickness now safely behind us. 

The ship had settled in to a more gentle roll than the previous day so it was easier to move around.  The sun broke through and the sky was a brilliant blue most of the day with barely a cloud to be seen all afternoon. The milder conditions gave everyone time to relax and enjoy the magnificent surroundings, no longer having to brace themselves against the mighty roll of Endeavour in the heaving seas of yesterday. 

Some small clouds appeared late in the day, providing an interesting sunset to finish off another wonderful day in the Tasman Sea. 
 

Throughout yesterday afternoon as the crew were catching up on some well earned rest a long with coming down from the adrenaline rush from the last few days, the our fantastic sailing breeze slowly dropped away. Fortunately we had a few zephyrs to maintain steerage for most of the night as the ship rolled heavily at times due to the large south easterly swell that has been produced from a deep low further out in the Tasman sea. 

At first light while becalmed, we shock reefs out of the topsails and have been adjusting sails in the variable breeze that comes and goes. 

We have just now worn ship and are hoping for the breeze to fill in from the north, then veer through the north east and then further into the south east later today.

All is well

It was a day of light winds as we slowly meandered north. Foremast watch sang sea shanties and shared care bear names. The sun was shining and the sky was a brilliant blue as we enjoyed a calm and restful day. But there’s one team on board that never rests. If you have a problem, if no one else can help and if you can find them, forget the A team you can depend the B team; the bosun team. 

Found aboard in their natural habitat yet sometimes difficult to spot. Scaling the rig on their daily check you may find them nestled high in the cross trees. If you look closely you may be able to spot the distinctive yellow plumage of the female of the species, hanging high around the fighting tops. If in luck you may also spot the gentle, though powerful front limbs of the dark and mysterious male, perching himself on the yards. They always move in pairs, no words are needed between this species. A nod, a passing of marlin, as they silently work completely in sync, understanding each other’s every move. 

Lead by Bosun Matt and Bosun’s mate Amy, Team Bosun go above and beyond the call of duty. In a raging sea, stormy skies, no situation is too challenging for them. A brilliant team, never a tarred moment between them and never stepping out of ranking order in the galley line (almost!). 
 

Shortly after Wearing ship onto the starboard tack not long before midday yesterday, our breeze slowly returned and filled in from the north east enough to get Endeavour sailing in the right direction once more. It was a restful day for the crew and a lesson in patience highlighting what sailors of old had to contend with. 

Throughout the evening and through the night, Endeavour maintained a steady 3-3.5 knots with the wind veering into the east until early this morning. At 0600 the wind veered into the southeast allowing Endeavour to comfortably weather St Georges headland and prepare to sail into Jervis bay where will will have a rest for the night. 

As of midday today, Endeavour has sailed in excess of 550 nautical miles without the use of engines which were last shut down on the 14th February as we exited the Derwent river. 

Tomorrow we will weigh anchor once more and make use of the anticipated southerly to continue our way north. 

All is well. 

Yesterday during lunch we had managed to clear St George's headland and Cape St George before we altered course to sail into Jervis bay. On our approach we took in the main topsail and then the fore topsail and continued into Jervis bay with the Fore course, Sprit sail and a couple of lower fore and after sails. Once we entered the bay, we sailed as close to our chosen anchorage as possible before having to take in the last of our sails and reluctantly use the engine for our final approach into the wind.  This being approximately one mile.

Endeavour anchored in the southern area of Jervis bay in an area called Darling Roads, just off the beach called Green Patch. We remained there overnight and all crew got a good rest and stood short anchor watches throughout the night.

We had a few light showers throughout the early morning as the wind started to fill in again from the south, and an opportunity to good to resist presented itself, sailing off the anchor.  During breakfast and after a morning briefing, all hands were set to work. One watch looking after the anchor cable with the mate and boatswain and also looked after the helm and the setting of the fore topmast stay sail. One other watch stood by the fore topsail and fore course, while the third watch loosened the main topsail and stood by to set it.  

As the anchor was a peak, the fore topmast staysail was set sheeted in tight and as the anchor lifted off the sea floor the ship moved astern and began to turn. The fore mast yards were braced up ready to catch the breeze and the fore topsail was sheeted home and then hoisted, followed shortly after by the fore course and main topsail. As Endeavour sailed toward the north, the anchor was catted, fished and secured while the yards were braced sharp up in order to sail close hauled on a tight bowline out of Jervis bay to the east. It was a commendable effort by all on board and is something that has not been achieved for many years. 

Endeavour cleared Point Perpendicular and proceeded offshore to gain sea room before coming off the wind and setting more sail to take advantage of our twenty knot southerly to push us north.  The wind is forecast to lessen and as it does we will continue to add more sail. 

All is well

Waking up in Jervis Bay, it was all hands on deck to sail off the anchor and continue our journey north. It was Levi’s birthday so there was plenty of cake and slices for afternoon tea to enjoy.

Ever wondered how Al creates these wonderful treats? It’s time to share a recipe! 

Endeavour kept the breeze for the afternoon and through most of the night, maintaining a good 5 knots to the north sailing with the comfortable 20 knot southerly. 

You can always tell by the shipping when you are coming closer to Sydney. Many cargo vessels remain drifting and manoeuvring offshore awaiting their slot to enter port, both outside Port Kembla and also Port Botany, at times making an interesting challenge for the officer of the watch.

Endeavour sailed wide of the coast and essentially followed the 200 metre depth contour to remain well clear of port limits and most other vessels. We also ensured we did not venture to far offshore, as this would have resulted in fighting against the south flowing East Coast current which could half our speed to the north. 

At day break Endeavour was east of Sydney heads as we watched two cruise ships enter and we slowly lost our breeze as it backed into the east. We managed to hold our intended course along the Northern Beaches until we altered to make our approach into Broken Bay. 

We had intended to set all sail and give them a good airing out throughout the morning. All sails were loosed and as we prepared to continue setting, the wind shifted to the north east and kindly delivered a rain squall which completely scuppered our plans to air out and dry our 17 sails, along with our complicating our approach under sail. 

Due to the fickle winds and frequent rains squalls we ceased setting extra sails and were in the process of putting them away again while clawing our way slowly toward the coast to the north of Barrenjoey headland when we spotted James Craig departing from Broken Bay as the first sitting of lunch was called.

All is damp

The day began with calm seas and a plan to hoist every sail on the ship. A gentle southerly rolled the ship North towards Broken Bay and the Mizzen watch set (with the help of team bosun of course) set about loosening everything aloft. Staysails, spritsails and topgallants tumbled out of their neat bundles and lay waiting for an eager voyage crew to set them. Plans and sailing ships never go hand in hand though and a mid morning shower along with a wind shift put a damper on sail setting.

Though as we ran down toward Broken bay, the sea had another surprise for us. A black speck on the horizon took form as she grew, the James Craig. Motoring out of the bay under her fore and aft sails, she wore ship behind us, hardening up onto a starboard reach and as she set her square sails, her motor cut out and she overhauled us. As she drew closer, two ships sailing beam on beam, the bosun team loaded the port gun and let her have it! Having scared off the would be boarders, the Craig turned south after exchanging three cheers and headed for Sydney whilst we handed sail and reluctantly motored into the Hawkesbury River.

Rain and mist accompanied us up the river, all sails furled and the crew soaked through, it was time to drop anchor and put the ship to sleep for the night. Bedding down for a night when the deck is still under your feet and your dinner doesn’t slide off the table? Yes please!

By Ryan, Upper Yardsman, Mizzen Watch

James craig (JC) slowly motored out from Broken Bay as we were sailing inshore and reducing sail. She came out to the north of Endeavour with the fore and after sails set and her square sails ready for sheeting home. Endeavours crew watched on as JC set sail after sail and came up close to us under our lee and slowly over took us.

Meanwhile, our Boatswain was busy preparing a charge and loaded the cannon. As JC passed alongside, we let rip with a cannon salute. It is not often that there is and opportunity to sail in company, yet alone open fire on our friends.

 

Shortly after our salute, JC gave three cheers and Endeavours crew heartily responded with a return three cheers. JC came of the wind and turned her bow to the south and made her way to Sydney.

We continued to take in Sail on Endeavour, and reluctantly stated our engine to make our way to the chosen anchorage. As we motored into Broken bay and up the river, the rain had seton saturating the crew as they furled sails in the rig.

We made it to our anchorage in the rain and mist and then set about anchor watches as they furled sails drizzle continued.

This morning we awoke to the noise of cicadas and the songs of native birds ashore as they also started their day. The sun came out and the natural beauty of Cowan creek was revealed now that the mist and rains have cleared.

We have remained at the anchor and the hands have set about cleaning the ship, drying out their clothes and opening up the ship to push some fresh air through below deck to dry everything out.

All is well. 

Well it was a fabulous, relaxing day anchored off Little Shark Rock Point. After giving the ship a good clean up, it was time for some salt water showers and climbing aloft to take in the fantastic views. Reading, napping and some banjo playing were all part of the day as everyone relaxed in the sunshine.

It is a large crew on Endeavour, with 16 professional crew and 40 voyage crew helping to sail the ship. The professional crew includes Al and Brian in the galley, who delivered an entertaining evening for our last night at anchor. Our fantastic team Bosun of Matt and Amy who keep the rig in excellent shape. Engineer Mark who looks after the bowels of Endeavour and all our engineering requirements. Our captain Ant, for not only keeping us all in line, but making sure we get everywhere safely, along with his team of Officers, Mike, Nat and Brendan, keeping guard over the ship in rotating watches.

Finally the topmen of Hannah, Paula and Mark and their upper yardies Harry, Ryan and Nico. These guys are the leaders of each watch group, patiently teaching voyage crew how to sail this ship. They have done a magnificent job. (Special shoutout to Topman Mark for his contribution to this blog….that one time!)

And our doctor Rae for making sure we all stayed medically fit for the duration!

And last but not least this wonderful voyage crew who have made the whole trip possible. Through tentative steps at the beginning, to confidently hauling and sweating and sailing this ship in the way she is meant to be sailed. You’ve definitely earnt your sealegs and it has been wonderful having you all on board with many new friendships made.

Written by Tracey Gottliebsen

After a full day and two nights anchored in picturesque Cowan Creek, it was time to weigh anchor at first light and put back out to sea for our final sail to Sydney. We slowly motored out of Broken bay and made our way offshore for three miles before we found the wind we had hoped for to carry us south. A light Northerly breeze started to fill in and as it did so we unfurled our topsails and fore course and comfortably sailed south along the Northern Beaches to Sydney heads, getting buzzed by a helicopter along the way. 

By the time we arrived at the heads the breeze had freshened and Endeavour was sailing at five knots as we braced for a starboard tack and sailed in through the heads. The yards were braced square again as we entered the Western channel and we continued sailing, carefully dodging the Sunday harbour traffic and sailing races. It was quite the contrast to the peace and tranquillity of being out at sea. 

Endeavour rounded Bradley's head as we braced the yards again for a starboard tack and shortly after started to reduce sail. The watches lowered and clewed up the fore and main topsails and climbed aloft to furl them. 

Endeavour continued sailing toward the harbour bridge and as we passed Kirribilli the fore course was clewed up and furled as we continued sailing at 3 knots with only the fore topmast staysail under the harbour bridge and around Millers point towards Darling Harbour. Endeavour wished to keep sailing , but the breeze had other ideas when it finally died due to being in the lee of the city buildings only 300 meters from the Museum wharf. 

Endeavour arrived alongside at 1510 after travelling at total of 728 nautical miles from Hobart, 685 nautical miles (94%) was completely under sail, truely a remarkable unprecedented achievement by all on board.

All is well

It was an early morning exit down out of Cowan Creek as the sun rose across the bow. Winds were light and sails were set as we made our final journey towards Sydney. It was a clear, blue sky day as we sailed into the magnificent Sydney Harbour before docking at the Australian National Maritime Museum. As our journey came to a close, we look back at what a wonderful sailing trip this has been.

We had a beautiful dawn exit from Hobart as we fired the cannon at the “Investigator”. We were so fortunate to have winds that were in our favour for a significant part of the voyage, enabling us to often sail downwind with a following sea, reaching speeds of 12 knots. Our best continuous block of straight sailing was 551 nautical miles without using the engines.

We encountered the James Craig twice, once when we overtook them at sea and then again when they came to meet us off Broken Bay. This made for some great photo opportunities and of course some friendly firing of the cannon again.

There were sightings of whales, dolphins, dolphin fish and bird life, including watching albatross gliding over the ocean and our friendly shearwater bird that came to visit. Night time sails under starry skies, seeing bioluminescence in the water, dolphins coming to play and lighting up the dark seas. We ate magnificent food and watched amazing sunsets and sunrises. Rainy days came and went delivering beautiful rainbows.

All on this beautiful ship, Endeavour, that sailed like she was meant to be sailed and delivered us all safely back to Sydney. What a voyage!